Caves, Shepherds, and Detention

We are back in Jerusalem from visiting some rural villages South of Hebron and we get on a flight back to Denver tomorrow night, I have so much to tell you about, but here are some of the most eventful stories.

One night some of us walked to a neighboring village, Tuba (what a cool name, huh?), to spend the night with families there. This is the village we marched to with the children although we took a longer, more difficult route there for the sake of safety. Along the walk we encountered 3 camels, some gazelle, and a herd of sheep with a shepherd.

Tiffany and I stayed with O's family who are shepherds. Though they own many acres of land, it is illegal for them to build anything on the land so they live in a cave below ground without electricity or water (obviously). We were welcomed with great hospitality and their children took us by the hand to show us their animals and play games. (I tried out my best sheep impression for laughs but I guess it looked more like a monkey...) Then they served us an incredible dinner of a tomato and Leban (salty cheese) soup with veggies and Tuboon bread, which is a delcious flat bread.

After dinner, the family told us stories of settler violence. Their children make the long walk to Tuwani every day between the settlements. Some of their children have been beaten up by settlers (grown men) and one of their youngest sons who is entering 1st grade this year, was nearly kidnapped by a settler. (Though the Army has an agreement to accompany the children to school, they often don't show up and when they do, they only complete part of the route, stopping short of one of the most dangerous parts of the path, near the settlers' barns).

We stayed up late talking and then slept outside underneath the stars (this is the family's custom in summer). The weather was perfect and it was the best night of sleep I've had during the trip, despite the nighmarish stories. When we woke up, there were all sorts of animals walking right past our beds - donkeys, chickens, doves, and sheep! I don't want to romanticize their life, though, because they very much want a house and would prefer not to live in a cave!!

In the morning, we accompanied the shepherds, who are in constant danger of violence and harassment from settlers and soldiers. I don't know what I was imagining when I thought of shepherds...maybe tough, grizzly old men? These shepherds were just boys - ages 11, 15, and 19, and part of the family who hosted us (another team accompanied a pair of shepherds ages 10 and 11).

The shepherds took the sheep out to graze on their land (the land they own, near Tuba) and we walked alongside. (They requested our presence because the presence of "Internationals" deters the risk of violence, they believe). Shepherding is a form of resistance because when land is stolen, one of the justifications that is given is that "the land was not being used" so the shepherds are sure to graze their sheep everyday.

All was beautiful and peaceful for about an hour until we spotted some soldiers making their way towards us. This happens nearly every day and the shephers must decide if they will stay and graze anyway or leave for another place. Staying means possible violence or arrest and leaving means a step towards losing their land. That day, the shepherds decided to stay.

More soldiers came and they called the Israeli police who arrived with some settlers. The settlers in fact had called the Army who detained the shepherds and the Internationals. The detention was spread out over a long time (I think it was 4 hours sitting in the sun, altogether). The police were waiting for the military government to show up with the official maps that would show who the land belonged to, according to the Israeli government. When the military government finally showed up they did not bring any maps or other evidence and told us that the land was state land, which means it is illegal for Palestinians, settlers, Israelis, and Internationals to be on it (yet the settlers present were certainly not detained or risking arrest). In actuality, O's family's land has not been seized by the Israeli state, yet...which is probably why the government did not bring a map to show.

Eventually, all detainees were let go, except the oldest shepherd boy. While we was not officially "arrested" (after all, there were no charges...he was legally on his land), he was not allowed to leave and was taken to the settlement police station so that the officers could "help answer his questions." They told us that the boy had requested to go and they were helping him, but it was clear he did not want to go to the police station.

I'm no lawyer...but this doesn't sound like justice to me...

Yesterday we spent an incredible day with Bedouins and I can't wait to tell you about them and their very complex issues, but this post is long enough.

Please pray for safe travels, especially an uneventful clearance through the Tel Aviv airport!!

Salaam! Shalom! Peace!